Rustica: Worth More Than a Gamble

The restaurant business is fraught with risk, especially in Kalamazoo. Occupying the space of two failed restaurants, one of the city’s newest eateries, Rustica, defies economic depression starting at 5 PM Monday through Saturday.

Just shy of three months old, Rustica serves “rustic European cuisine” with mostly local ingredients, Turkish extra-virgin olive oil aside. Situated in Kalamazoo’s quasi-urban center, across from an upscale tapas bar, several higher-end hair salons and a fair-trade clothing store, Rustica’s fare and atmosphere are well-suited for midwestern sensibilities in a slightly more refined setting.

Rustica’s narrow, low-lit dining room surrounds the open kitchen where Chef Adam Watts and his team prepare dishes in a style consistent with the principle goal of rustic cooking: making guests comfortable and welcome.

One indicator of Rustica’s hopefully continued success is its attention to its clientele, not only in the generous portions that it serves, but in the prices that accompany its dishes. All main courses are between $14 and $19, and are easily shared between diners, and many first courses are quite filling by themselves.

The massive antipasti plate offers a variety of flavors that work on every region of the tongue ($6). With grilled yams (served cold), a savory olive medley, sweet and spicy nuts and intensely acidic house-pickled vegetables, not venturing away from the “firsts” section on the menu might provide a satisfying meal.

The next appetizer could be a terrific one-person entree on the cheap, and may inspire selfishness. The duck confit ($9) is fruity, sweet, and better resembles braised duck leg than a traditional confit, though rustic cuisine can get away with playing fast and loose with tradition. The meat’s apple-celery chutney was refreshing and palate clearing.

Anything on the main course menu could have been satisfying, and the long ribbons of papardelle pasta ($15) with hickory smoked chicken and pecorino cheese in an arugula-walnut pesto were no exception.

Brought to the table by one of the restaurant’s genial waitstaff, the thin, but peppery, sweet, and citrusy pesto danced across the tongue, and invited the sweet-smoke umami of the chicken to play with it.

Despite being shared, this meal required boxes -- even for the sweet ricotta cheese cannoli ($5). The accompanying espresso-sized mug of hot chocolate with cinnamon and cayenne gave a sweet-spicy finish to the meal that cleared the senses, but not the checkbook. 


From entrance to exit, it seems like Rustica has it right. Rustica stands among a select group of new restaurants in Kalamazoo whose openings represent a commitment to revitalize this city. As co-owner Bill Weier demands on Rustica’s website, “Give me some crusty bread, simple food, good friends and a bottle of wine. . .now that is a meal.” Kalamazoo citizens should enjoy that meal and ensure civic revitalization at Rustica.